Getting around in Paris

25 April 2007

This morning while Virginia was in school I set out to walk into the heart of Paris to the beautiful old Opera Garnier. While the route is a bit convoluted, it was most enjoyable since it meant going in at the same time that most working Parisians were setting out. If, once we are back in Hobart, I complain about the log trucks coming through the heart of the city, remind me of Paris traffic. Huge trucks, "bendy" buses, smaller trucks, cars, motorcyclists, scooter riders, inline skaters and pedestrians all vie for the roads.


It is amazing and a bit frightening since the rules of the road seem to vary depending upon which road you are on and whether or not the driver chooses to obey them. Surprisingly, we have not seen a single accident since we arrived although we saw a close one the other day when a driver decided he had waited long enough at a red light and decided to drive on; right into the path of a woman pushing a baby in a stroller. Close, but he stopped in time and both the driver and the woman just shrugged and went on their ways.

The scooter and motorcycle is much more in evidence here than in Australia. It is a cheaper way of getting around and petrol prices in Europe are more than double those in Australia. In addition, the scooters and cycles can weave in and out of traffic. It is not unusual to see a rider come up onto the pavement, weaving his or her way through pedestrians. Oddly enough, bicyclists tend not to do this; sticking to the road. The French bicycle looks as if it is left over from World War I and the riders, especially the women, ride in a very upright position. The bikes usually have a small wicker basket on the handlebars.

Of course, we are doing all of our travelling on public transport. Buses are frequent and efficient. This is because there are clearly marked bus lanes although how some of the drivers get their big buses in and out of some of the narrow openings in traffic remains a wonder to us. As for the Metro, what can one say about it? It rarely takes more than ten to fifteen minutes to go anywhere on the line, even with a couple of changes. The only thing lacking is a view, but then a train full of Parisians, tourists and out of town visitors is a sight in itself, and more than enough to keep one amused.

A few days ago I told you about running into our tour driver from 2005, Guynael, well, I had an even stranger encounter today. Virginia had a good deal of homework so I set out to visit museums. I went to the Orangerie to see some of the paintings we had enjoyed on an earlier visit and then strolled through the Tuilleries to the Louvre to look at their collection of nineteenth century painting. Suddenly I heard a voice, "hey, Bruce." It was Ryan Hartshorne, a former Jane student and one that Virginia and I had mentored. He was on the start of a tour of Europe and had just two days in Paris. Considering the size of the Louvre - one could wander around their for days without meeting someone else who was visiting it - it was a most remarkable meeting.

Although it is still a week until May Day, the traditional floral symbol, Lilies of the Valley (Les Mugets) are for sale on every street corner. We bought some to brighten up the flat and have been enjoying them for a couple of days now.

Tomorrow my four day pass to the museums runs out so I shall be doing a few more. Until tomorrow, then.